Clothing rental is a hot new industry and retailers (零售商) are demanding to get on board in hopes of attracting green shopper.
But is renting fashion actually more environmentally-friendly than buying it, and if so, how much more? Journalist and author Elizabeth Cline investigated (调查) this question and concluded that it's not as sustainable as it seems.
Take shipping, for example, which has to go two ways if an item is rented — receiving and returning. Cline writes that consumer transportation has the second largest carbon footprint of our collective fashion habit after manufacturing.
She writes, ''An item ordered online and then returned can send out 20 kilograms of carbon each way, and increases up to 50 kilograms for rush shipping. By comparison, the carbon impact of a pair of jeans purchased from a physical store and washed and worn at home is 33.4 kilograms, according to a 2015 study by Levi's.''
Then there's the burden of washing, which has to happen for every item when it's returned, regardless of whether or not it was worn. For most rental services, this usually means dry cleaning, a high impact and polluting process. All the rental services that Cline looked into have replaced perchloroethylene (氯乙烯), a carcinogenic (致癌的) air pollutant, still used by 70 percent of US dry cleaners, with alternatives, although these aren't great either.
Lastly, Cline fears that rental services will increase our appetite for fast fashion, simply because it's so easily accessible. There's something called ''share washing'' that makes people waste more precisely because a product or service is shared and thus is regarded as more eco-friendly. Uber is one example of this, advertised as ''a way to share rides and limit ear ownership.'' and yet ''it has been proven to discourage walking,bicycling, and public transportation use.''
Renting clothes is still preferable to buying them cheap and throwing them in the dustbin after a few wears, but we shouldn't let the availability of these services make us too satisfied. There's an even better step — that's wearing what is already in the closet.
服装租赁是一个炙手可热的新兴行业,零售商们纷纷要求加入进来,希望吸引绿色购物者。
但租用时装真的比购买时装更环保吗?如果是的话,多环保多少?记者兼作家伊丽莎白·克莱恩(Elizabeth Cline)调查了这个问题,得出的结论是,它并不像看起来那样可持续。
以运输为例,如果一件物品是租来的,它必须有两种方式——接收和返回。克莱恩写道,在我们的集体时尚习惯中,消费运输是仅次于制造业的第二大碳足迹。
她写道:“一件在网上订购的商品,然后退回来,单程会排放20公斤的碳,如果是加急运输,则会增加50公斤。相比之下,根据李维斯2015年的一项研究,从实体店购买一条牛仔裤,在家清洗和穿着,其碳排放量为33.4公斤。”
然后是洗涤的负担,每件退货时都必须清洗,不管它是否穿过。对于大多数租赁服务来说,这通常意味着干洗,这是一个高影响和污染的过程。克莱因调查的所有租赁服务都用替代品取代了过氯乙烯(氯),这是一种致癌的空气污染物,仍被70%的美国干洗店使用,尽管这些替代品也不是很好。
最后,克莱恩担心租赁服务会增加我们对快时尚的兴趣,仅仅因为它太容易获得。有一种叫做“共享洗涤”的东西,它使人们更精确地浪费,因为产品或服务是共享的,因此被认为是更环保的。优步就是一个例子,它被宣传为“一种共享乘车和限制所有权的方式”。然而,“它已被证明不利于步行、骑自行车和乘坐公共交通工具。”
租衣服仍然比便宜买衣服,穿几次就扔进垃圾桶要好,但我们不应该让这些服务的可用性让我们过于满足。还有一个更好的步骤——穿衣橱里已经有的衣服。
句子成分分析:
Clothing rental is a hot new industry || and retailers (零售商) are demanding to get on board [in hopes (of
attracting green shopper)].
句子语法结构详解:
* Clothing 为动名词。
* is 为系动词作谓语,采用一般现在时。
* and 为并列连词,连接并列句。
* demanding 为谓语,采用现在进行时。
* to get 为不定式,作宾语。
* attracting 为动名词,作介词宾语。
* are 为助动词。a 为不定冠词。
句子相关词汇解释:
Phrase:
get on... | 登上..., 骑上... |
on board | 1) 在船(车、飞机等)上 2) 上飞机(车、船等) |
Vocabulary:
clothe [klәuð] | vt. | 1) 给……穿衣 2) 为(某人)提供衣服 |
rental ['rentl] | n. | 1) 租金 2) 出租;租赁;招租 |
hot [hɔt] | a. | 1) 热的,温度高的 2) 觉得闷(或燥、湿)热 |
new [nju:] | a. | 1) 新的,刚出现的,新近推出的 2) (the new)新东西,新事物 |
industry ['indәstri] | n. | 1) 工业,生产制造 2) 行业 |
and [ænd] | conj. | 1) 和, 与, 同, 并 2) 然后,接着 |
retailer ['ri:teilә] | n. | 零售商,零售店 |
demand [di'mɑ:nd] | vt. | 1) 强烈要求 2) 需要 |
hope [hәup] | n. | 1) 希望 2) 希望的东西 |
attract [ә'trækt] | vt. | 1) 吸引,使喜爱,引起……的好感(或爱慕) 2) 招引 |
green [gri:n] | a. | 1) 绿色的,草绿色的 2) 长满青草的,绿油油的,青葱的 |
shopper ['ʃɔpә] | n. | 购物者;(商店的) 顾客 |
句子成分分析:
Journalist and author Elizabeth Cline investigated (调查) this question and concluded | that it's not as sustainable
as it seems.
句子语法结构详解:
(it's = it is)
* investigated 为谓语,采用一般过去时。
* concluded 为谓语,采用一般过去时。
* that 为连词,引导宾语从句。
* is 为系动词作谓语,采用一般现在时。
* 句中含有用于比较的结构 not so/as...as...,意为“不像……那样……”
* sustainable 为形容词作表语。
* 第2个 as 为连词,引导比较状语从句。
* seems 为谓语,采用一般现在时。动词采用第三人称单数形式。
句子相关词汇解释:
Phrase:
not so/as...as... | 不像...那样...,没有...那样... |
Vocabulary:
journalist ['dʒә:nәlist] | n. | 新闻记者,新闻工作者 |
and [ænd] | conj. | 1) 和, 与, 同, 并 2) 然后,接着 |
author ['ɔ:θә] | n. | 1) 作者,作家 2) (尤指计划或思想的)倡议者,创始者,发起人 |
cline | n. | 渐变群,梯度变异(群体中相邻后两个成员相差无几,但第一和最后一个之间差异极明显) |
investigate [in'vestigeit] | vt. | 1) 调查,侦查(某事) 2) 调查(某人) |
this [θis] | a. | 1) 这(个) 2) 今,本 |
question ['kwestʃәn] | n. | 1) 问题,疑问 2) (待讨论或处理的)事情,议题,课题 |
conclude [kәn'klu:d] | vt. | 1) 使结束,终止 2) 断定,推断出,作出结论 |
sustainable [sә'steinәbl] | a. | 1) 可持续的 2) (对自然资源和能源的利用)不破坏生态平衡的,合理利用的 |
seem [si:m] | vt. | 1) 好像,似乎,看来 2) (表示不确切或客气)看来好像,似乎 |
句子成分分析:
Renting clothes is still preferable to buying them [cheap] and throwing them [in the dustbin] [after a few wears], ||
but we shouldn't let the availability (othese services) make us too satisfied.
句子语法结构详解:
(shouldn't = should not)
* Renting 为动名词。
* is 为系动词作谓语,采用一般现在时。
* preferable 为形容词作表语。
* buying 为动名词,作介词宾语。
* throwing 为动名词。
* but 为并列连词,连接并列句,表转折。
* let 为谓语。
* make 为不带 to 的不定式,作宾语补足语(或称复合宾语)。
* satisfied 为形容词作宾语补足语(即构成复合宾语)。
* should 为情态动词。we 为人称代词主格。them, us 为人称代词宾格。the 为定冠词。
句子相关词汇解释:
Phrase:
be preferable to... | 比...更好, 比...更适合, 比...更可取 |
a few | 几(个) |
Vocabulary:
rent [rent] | vt. | 1) 租用,租赁(房屋、土地、机器等) 2) 出租,将……租给 |
clothes [klәuðz] | n. | 衣服,服装 |
still [stil] | ad. | 1) 仍然, 还是,还 2) (加强比较级)还要,还有,更 |
buy [bai] | vt. | 1) 买,购买 2) (钱)够支付 |
cheap [tʃi:p] | ad. | 便宜地,廉价地 |
and [ænd] | conj. | 1) 和, 与, 同, 并 2) 然后,接着 |
throw [θrәu] | vt. | 1) 投,掷,抛,扔 2) 摔,丢,扔 |
dustbin ['dʌstbin] | n. | (常置于室外的)垃圾桶,垃圾箱 |
after ['ɑ:ftә] | prep. | 1) (时间、次序或位置)在...之后 2) 仅次于 |
wear [wєә] | n. | 1) 穿着,佩戴 2) 着装,装 |
but [bʌt] | conj. | 1) 但是 2) 而, 却 |
let [let] | vt. | 1) 让,允许 2) 准许,许可,同意 |
availability [ә,veilә'biliti] | n. | 1) 可用性 2) 有效性 |
these [ði:z] | a. | 这些 |
service ['sә:vis] | n. | 1) 服务,接待 2) 公共事业 |
make [meik] | vt. | 1) 使,致使,促使 2) 做, 制作, 创造,创作, 建造 3) 使出现, 形成 |
too [tu:] | ad. | 1) 太,过于,过度 2) 也,又,还 |
satisfied ['sætisfaiәd] | a. | 1) 满意的;满足的;欣慰的 2) 确信的;信服的 |
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