又一巨头加注，香水进入“黄金时代”？/上游端开启“收购潮”

本周，欧莱雅集团押注生物基原料，奇华顿收购化妆品制造商。

想了解全球化妆品行业发生了什么？全球资讯第316期带你速览本周(2024年7月1日—7月5日)精彩：

香水赛道仍然“吃香”，资生堂获得奢侈品牌香水授权

日妆回暖了？CPB去年卖了近77亿

欧莱雅前高管创立的品牌被联合利华投了！

欧莱雅押注的生物基原料，或成“新风口”？

加注美妆市场，国际香料巨头收购化妆品制造商

欧莱雅、资生堂等眉笔供应商“易主”！

香水赛道仍然“吃香”，资生堂获得奢侈品牌香水授权

日前，资生堂集团和意大利奢侈时尚品牌Max Mara宣布，双方计划建立长期香水业务合作。资生堂将获得Max Mara的全球独家授权许可，负责其香水产品的开发、生产、推广和分销。

而此次合作的关键条款将被纳入正式的许可协议中，该授权许可将由资生堂EMEA(欧洲、中东及非洲)负责管理。

资生堂集团董事长兼CEO鱼谷雅彦表示：“Max Mara是一个代表意大利奢华与风尚，且历史悠久的品牌，其高品质、经典的品牌价值和设计在世界各地都备受赞誉，我坚信此次合作不仅将助力我们香水业务的进一步增长，同时还将通过协同效应创造更多价值。”

“对于Max Mara来说，与资生堂就香水业务开展如此富有远见的合作是一个绝佳的机会。资生堂集团的核心价值观，对双方合作取得成功是必不可少的。”Max Mara集团主席Luigi Maramotti如是说道。

日妆回暖了？CPB去年卖了近77亿

近日，资生堂集团官网发布了旗下高端品牌 Cle de Peau Beaute(以下简称：CPB)商业战略简报会。

根据简报显示，2023年CPB的净销售额为1700亿日元(约合人民币76.77亿元)，其中，CPB品牌销售覆盖26个国家和地区，在全球拥有约2300个销售点，据称，在日本护肤品销量排名第一。

同时，简报还提及CPB在中国市场的表现，“中国是CPB品牌最大的市场，并且中国市场的表现还推动了Supreme、LaCreme 、 Synactif 等品牌高端产品线的增长。”

在渠道方面，CPB则通过网络和实体店销售产品，其中实体店是最大的渠道。资生堂集团表示，“根据中国大陆的情况，品牌建立和执行与旅游相关的整体品牌活动。”

从资生堂2024年Q1财报数据来看，资生堂中国市场的销售额为554.75亿日元(约合人民币25.72亿元)，同比增长4.2%；核心营业利润1.12亿日元(约合人民币519.23万元)。

由此可见，相较于资生堂2023年财报显示的海外市场全线溃败，2024年Q1市场表现已有回暖。

欧莱雅前高管创立的品牌被联合利华投了！

近日，据外媒报道，快速增长的女性私密护理品牌 Luna Daily 获得联合利华旗下风险投资公司的投资，交易金额未披露。

据悉，此次对于 Luna Daily 投资是由联合利华领投，而紧随其后的是现有合作伙伴 Redrice Ventures 和 Joyance Partners 以及新天使投资人 Michelle Kennedy(Peanut 创始人)、Aaron Chatterley(Feelunique 联合创始人、Indu)、 Jane Henderson(Beauty & Wellness 主席、Mintel)和 Taos Edmondson(dmg ventures、Focal)的跟投。

欧莱雅前高管、Luna Daily创始人Katy Cottam表示：“我很高兴宣布联合利华风险投资公司成为我们最新的投资合作伙伴。自 Luna Daily 成立以来，我们就一直在与联合利华风险投资公司进行对话。他们支持我们迎合所有年龄段和各个阶段女性的愿景，包括我们最新的‘Motherhood’类别，现在就是我们开始合作的最佳时机。”

“Katy Cottam通过其适用于所有皮肤的微生物平衡配方提升了女性消费者沐浴露和护理产品的体验，她利用自己的经验创造了一种呵护女性身体各个阶段的产品。我们认为这是一个能够赋予女性力量的想法。”联合利华风险投资公司的 Anna Ohlsson-Baskerville聊及此次参投时说道。

欧莱雅押注的生物基原料，或成“新风口”？

日前，有外媒消息报道，欧莱雅集团与Debut Biotech公司签署了一项协议，根据协议，Debut Biotech公司将开发十多种生物基成分，以取代目前欧莱雅全球美容和个人护理品牌中使用的传统成分，涉及皮肤、头发、彩妆和香水领域。

值得一提的是，这是自欧莱雅于2023年6月通过其风险投资公司 Bold 向Debut Biotech公司领投4000万美元(约合人民币29091万元)B 轮融资以来，两家公司首次联合发表重大声明。同时，这也意味着欧莱雅集团和Debut Biotech公司的合作关系将进入下一阶段。

据了解，Debut Biotech是一家美国合成生物技术公司，总部位于加利福尼亚州圣地亚哥，专门从事新型成分和产品的端到端发现、配方、临床试验和制造。

从协议内容来看，Debut Biotech公司将利用专有的无细胞先进生物制造工艺，结合无细胞生物发酵技术，开发十多种生物基成分，以取代目前欧莱雅集团使用的传统发酵工艺。

Debut Biotech创始人兼首席执行官约书亚·布里顿Joshua Britton表示：“与酿造啤酒的传统发酵方式不同，我们采用无细胞发酵技术来开发欧莱雅集团在产品配方中常用的成分，这样的生产方式不需要进行大规模的原料种植，更具可持续性。”这也与欧莱雅集团的可持续发展目标不谋而合。

国际香料巨头收购化妆品制造商

近日，全球香精香料公司奇华顿官网宣布，已经完成了对意大利化妆品制造商b.kolormakeup & skincare(以下简称：b.kolor)的收购。奇华顿计划通过债务为此次收购提供资金，具体的交易条款不会披露。

据公告内容显示“在高级香水和护发领域奇华顿已经拥有领导地位，而此次收购将扩大奇华顿在美容领域的价值主张。”

奇华顿活性美容部负责人Markus Rassmann表示：“这次收购不仅加强了我们在彩妆和护肤品领域的能力，还能使我们成为推动市场走向未来更以解决方案为导向的企业。”

“加入奇华顿是提升我们业务的好机会。奇华顿在创造、原料和技术方面将支持我们发展b.kolor的产品供应，同时受益于奇华顿的客户群和业务覆盖范围，在新的地区开展b.kolor业务。另外，我们能与奇华顿共享创意设计和生产专业知识，将未来的产品变为现实。”b.kolor董事长Maria-Teresa Sancini如是说道。

欧莱雅、资生堂等眉笔供应商“易主”！

近日，聚美丽从苏州科玛杭州科欧玛化妆品ODM官方公众号获悉，TOA集团(原日本科玛集团)了收购全球著名彩妆化妆品公司Tokiwa，交易条款尚未披露。

据了解，曾在6月中旬，美国私募投资巨头凯雷集团Carlyle Group(以下简称：凯雷集团)就宣布，将同意向TOA集团出售Tokiwa100%的股份。如今看来，TOA集团已完成了收购。

资料显示，Tokiwa成立于1948年，是日本彩妆代工市场占有率第一的知名化妆品生产公司。其总部位于日本岐阜县中津川，是全球化妆品品牌眼线笔和眉笔的主要供应商，合作对象包括资生堂、香奈儿、欧莱雅、花王等。涉及的产品品类包括眼线笔、眼线膏、眼线液。

其中，凯雷集团在6月发布的声明中称，“自2019年投资Tokiwa以来，凯雷集团一直与管理团队密切合作，不仅在日本市场，还在美国、中国等国际市场也实现了增长。主要系靠扩大销售、营销职能、提高生产能力以及改善产品的可持续性等手段。”

而作为收购方TOA集团则表示，作为日本化妆品承包制造业最大的集团，此次收购在眼线笔、和眉笔制造领域有着不错表现的Tokiwa，将进一步提升集团的生产实力，扩大其在日本本土的市场份额，提高产品竞争力、扩展彩妆代工业务，并进一步巩固海外市场。

Another giant added, perfume entered the "golden age"/ Upstream platform launches' acquisition wave '

Gathering Beauty

07-06 19:00 from Zhejiang

This week, L'Oreal Group placed a bet on biobased ingredients and acquired cosmetics manufacturer Chihuadun.

Author | Pu Yu

Want to know what's happening in the global cosmetics industry? The 316th issue of Global News takes you on a quick look at the highlights of this week (July 1-5, 2024):

Perfume track is still "popular", and Shiseido has obtained the authorization of luxury brand perfume

Is daily makeup getting warmer? CPB sold nearly 7.7 billion yuan last year

The brand founded by a former L'Oreal executive has been invested by Unilever!

L'Oreal's bet on bio based raw materials may become a 'new trend'?

Adding to the beauty market, international spice giant acquires cosmetics manufacturer

L'Oreal, Shiseido and other eyebrow pencil suppliers have changed hands!

Perfume track is still "popular", and Shiseido has obtained the authorization of luxury brand perfume

Recently, Shiseido Group and Italian luxury fashion brand Max Mara announced that they plan to establish long-term perfume business cooperation. Shiseido will obtain the exclusive global license from Max Mara to be responsible for the development, production, promotion and distribution of its perfume products.

The key terms of this cooperation will be included in the formal licensing agreement, which will be managed by Shiseido EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa).

Yoshihiko Yutani, chairman and CEO of Shiseido Group, said: "Max Mara is a time-honored brand representing Italian luxury and fashion. Its high quality and classic brand value and design are highly praised around the world. I firmly believe that this cooperation will not only help us to further grow our perfume business, but also create more value through synergy."

"For Max Mara, it is an excellent opportunity to carry out such visionary cooperation with Shiseido on perfume business. The core values of Shiseido Group are essential for the success of the cooperation between the two sides." said Luigi Maramotti, chairman of Max Mara Group.

Is daily makeup getting warmer? CPB sold nearly 7.7 billion yuan last year

Recently, Shiseido Group's official website released a business strategy briefing for its high-end brand Cle de Peau Beaute (CPB).

According to the briefing, the net sales of CPB in 2023 will be 170 billion yen (approximately 7.677 billion yuan), of which CPB brand sales cover 26 countries and regions, with about 2300 sales points worldwide. It is said that CPB ranks first in skincare sales in Japan.

At the same time, the briefing also mentioned the performance of CPB in the Chinese market, stating that "China is the largest market for CPB brands, and the performance in the Chinese market has also driven the growth of high-end product lines for brands such as Supreme, LaCure, Synactif, etc

In terms of channels, CPB sells products through both online and physical stores, with physical stores being the largest channel. Shiseido Group said, "According to the situation in Chinese Mainland, brand building and implementation of overall brand activities related to tourism."

According to Shiseido's Q1 2024 financial report data, Shiseido's sales in the Chinese market were 55.475 billion yen (approximately 2.572 billion yuan), a year-on-year increase of 4.2%; The core operating profit is 112 million yen (approximately 5.1923 million yuan).

From this, it can be seen that compared to Shiseido's 2023 financial report showing a complete collapse in overseas markets, the market performance in Q1 2024 has rebounded.

The brand founded by a former L'Oreal executive has been invested by Unilever!

Recently, according to foreign media reports, Luna Daily, a rapidly growing women's intimate care brand, has received investment from Unilever's venture capital firm for an undisclosed amount.

It is reported that the investment in Luna Daily is led by Unilever, followed closely by existing partners Redrice Ventures and Joyance Partners, as well as new angel investors Michelle Kennedy (founder of Peanut), Aaron Chatterley (co-founder of Feelunique, Indus), Jane Henderson (Chairman of Beauty&Wellness, Mintel), and Taos Edmondson (dmg ventures, Focal).

Katy Cottam, former executive of L'Oreal and founder of Luna Daily, said, "I am pleased to announce that Unilever Ventures has become our latest investment partner. Since the establishment of Luna Daily, we have been in dialogue with Unilever Ventures. They support our vision of catering to women of all ages and stages, including our latest 'Motherhood' category, and now is the best time for us to start working together

Katy Cottam has enhanced the experience of female consumers with shower gels and care products through her microbiome balanced formula that is suitable for all skin types. She has used her experience to create a product that cares for women's bodies at all stages. We believe this is an idea that can empower women, "said Anna Ohlsson Baskerville of Unilever Venture Capital when discussing this investment.

L'Oreal's bet on bio based raw materials may become a 'new trend'?

Recently, foreign media reported that L'Oreal Group signed an agreement with Debut Biotech. According to the agreement, Debut Biotech will develop more than ten kinds of bio based ingredients to replace the traditional ingredients currently used in L'Oreal's global beauty and personal care brands, involving the fields of skin, hair, cosmetics and perfume.

It is worth mentioning that this is the first time since L'Oreal led a $40 million series B funding round to Debut Biotech through its venture capital firm Bold in June 2023, and the two companies have jointly issued a major statement. At the same time, this also means that the partnership between L'Oreal Group and Debut Biotech will enter the next stage.

It is understood that Debut Biotech is an American synthetic biotechnology company headquartered in San Diego, California, specializing in end-to-end discovery, formulation, clinical trials, and manufacturing of novel ingredients and products.

From the content of the agreement, Debut Biotech will utilize proprietary cell-free advanced biomanufacturing processes, combined with cell-free fermentation technology, to develop more than ten bio based ingredients to replace the traditional fermentation processes currently used by L'Oreal Group.

Joshua Britton, founder and CEO of Debut Biotech, said, "Unlike the traditional fermentation method of brewing beer, we use cell-free fermentation technology to develop the ingredients commonly used in L'Oreal Group's product formulas. This production method does not require large-scale raw material cultivation and is more sustainable." This also coincides with L'Oreal Group's sustainable development goals.

International spice giant acquires cosmetics manufacturer

Recently, the official website of the global essence fragrance company Chihuaton announced that it had completed the acquisition of Italian cosmetics manufacturer b.kolomakeup&skincare (hereinafter referred to as b.kolor). Qihuadun plans to provide funding for this acquisition through debt, and specific transaction terms will not be disclosed.

According to the announcement, "Chiwharton already has a leading position in the field of advanced perfume and hair care, and this acquisition will expand Chiwharton's value proposition in the beauty field."

This acquisition not only strengthens our capabilities in the cosmetics and skincare industry, but also makes us a more solution oriented enterprise that drives the market towards the future, "said Markus Rassmann, Head of the Active Beauty department at Givaudan

Joining Qihuadun is a great opportunity to enhance our business. Qihuadun will support us in developing b. kolor's product supply in terms of creation, raw materials, and technology, while benefiting from Qihuadun's customer base and business coverage to expand b. kolor business in new regions. In addition, we can share creative design and production expertise with Qihuadun to turn future products into reality, "said Maria Tiresa Sancini, Chairman of b. kolor.

L'Oreal, Shiseido and other eyebrow pencil suppliers have changed hands!

Recently, Jumei learned from the official official account of Suzhou Kema Hangzhou Keoma Cosmetics ODM that TOA Group (formerly Japan Kema Group) has acquired the world famous cosmetics company Tokiwa, and the terms of the transaction have not been disclosed.

It is reported that in mid June, the American private equity investment giant Carlyle Group (hereinafter referred to as "Carlyle Group") announced that it would agree to sell 100% of Tokiwa's shares to TOA Group. Now it seems that TOA Group has completed the acquisition.

According to data, Tokiwa was founded in 1948 and is a well-known cosmetics production company with the highest market share in the Japanese cosmetics OEM market. Headquartered in Nakagawa, Gifu Prefecture, Japan, it is a major supplier of eyeliner pens and eyebrow pens for global cosmetics brands, with partners including Shiseido, Chanel, L'Oreal, Kao, etc. The product categories involved include eyeliner pens, eyeliner ointment and eyeliner lotion.

In a statement released in June, the Carlyle Group stated, "Since investing in Tokiwa in 2019, the Carlyle Group has been working closely with its management team and has achieved growth not only in the Japanese market, but also in international markets such as the United States and China. This is mainly achieved through expanding sales and marketing functions, improving production capacity, and enhancing product sustainability

As the acquirer, TOA Group said that as the largest group in Japan's cosmetics contract manufacturing industry, Tokiwa, which has a good performance in the manufacturing of eyeliner pens and eyebrow pens, will further enhance the group's production strength, expand its market share in Japan, improve product competitiveness, expand cosmetics OEM business, and further consolidate the overseas market.

句子成分分析：(划分说明)  提示：框中标识可点击

[According to data], Tokiwa was founded [in 1948] || and is a well-knowncosmetics production company [with the highest market share] [in the Japanesecosmetics OEM market].

句子语法结构详解：

(highest 为 high 的最高级形式)

* founded 为谓语，采用一般过去时和被动语态。
* is 为系动词作谓语，采用一般现在时。
* was 为助动词。the 为定冠词。a 为不定冠词。

句子相关词汇解释：

Phrase:

Vocabulary:

句子成分分析：(划分说明)  提示：框中标识可点击

[In a statement released [in June]], the Carlyle Group stated, <"Since investing inTokiwa [in 2019]>, | the Carlyle Group has been working [closely] [with itsmanagement team] and has achieved growth [not only in the Japanese market], but also in international markets (such as the United States and China).

句子语法结构详解：

* released 为过去分词，作后置定语。
* stated 为谓语，采用一般过去时。
* Since investing 为现在分词。
* 第2个 the 开头为宾语从句，引导词 that 被省略。
* working 为谓语，采用现在完成进行时。
* achieved 为谓语，采用现在完成时。
* 句中含有 not only...but also... 并列结构，意为“不但……而且……”。
* its 为物主代词。has, been 为助动词。the 为定冠词。a 为不定冠词。

句子相关词汇解释：

Phrase:

Vocabulary:

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