秒词邦

原文：

已经快沦为“时代眼泪”的GAP，最近天降流量。

上周，宝格丽在罗马发布高级珠宝和高级腕表新系列，全球品牌代言人安妮·海瑟薇到场亮相，一袭白裙配蓝宝秒杀菲林，和同场的舒淇、刘亦菲、佩丽冉卡·曹帕拉组成一个美颜盛世。如此浮华炫目名利场，海瑟薇身上穿的裙子竟然出自多少有些过了气的快时尚品牌GAP。

不知道品牌时，觉得海瑟薇美得很有松弛感，知道品牌后，愿封海瑟薇为“松弛感的祖宗”。

美国时间今天零点，海瑟薇同款正式上架GAP官网，售价158美元，很快售罄。

对于GAP来说，这恐怕算是近年来少有的高光时刻了。

不过，这条裙子关联的关键词，除了GAP，还有一个：Zac Posen。

今年2月5日，GAP集团宣布美国设计师Zac Posen将就任行政副总裁及创意总监，管理旗下GAP、Banana Republic、Athleta和Old Navy四个品牌，同时他也将额外担任Old Navy的首席创意官，除了设计，还负责货品和营销。

对于Zac Posen来说，入职GAP可以说是一次“下沉”，此前他主要混迹于高端时尚领域，靠给明星和名模设计定制礼服积累了一定名声，同名品牌Zac Posen是各种红毯、盛典上的常客。2014年，刘雯穿着他设计的绿色礼服裙亮相Met Gala，直到现在这个造型依然会在每年Met Gala将举办时作为经典回顾被刷屏。

（图/《穿普拉达的女王》）

然而，虽然常被一众明星超模选为“红毯战袍”，但高级定制养不活时尚品牌。不做香水口红、没有爆款成衣，也没有大集团输血，Zac Posen在2019年因财务问题关闭了2001年成立的同名品牌。

然后便是在2024年入主快时尚。

对于聘用Zac Posen的决定，GAP集团首席执行官Richard Dickson接受媒体采访时表示，他能将技术、创造力和对流行文化的认识结合在一起，这对GAP未来的发展有所帮助。

类似的任命以前也发生过。

2007年，GAP任命时尚行业红人Patrick Robinson担任创意总监，他曾在阿玛尼和Perry Ellis等高端品牌工作，还有美国版《VOGUE》主编、“时尚女魔头”安娜·温图尔的背书，他在GAP干了4年。

（图/《穿普拉达的女王》）

2012年，GAP继而找来了曾带领H&M集团旗下中高端品牌COS异军突起的设计师Rebekka Bay，她在GAP干了3年。

接受《华尔街日报》采访时，Rebekka Bay直言：“GAP并不是一个由设计师主导的品牌，在什么货品能进入商店销售这件事上，我几乎没有话语权。”

Rebekka Bay也匆匆离职后，GAP市场表现持续疲软，品牌形象加速老化。

屡次转型无果，GAP只能更用力地转型。

2020年，GAP还找来了前些年潮流界的爆款制造机“侃爷”Kanye West，大张旗鼓地要搞“Yeezy Gap”，两家协议一签就是10年，结果2022年就因侃爷的史诗级大翻车宣告分道扬镳。

也是在2022年，GAP把大中华区业务卖给了2018年开始合作的电商服务商宝尊，后者获得Gap独家授权在大中华区生产、推广与全渠道销售，同时还拥有中国产品的设计权。这笔收购已于2023年2月正式完成。

至此可以说国内版Gap基本成了“纯血国货”。

将大中华区业务收入囊中的宝尊，主要任务还是转型。顺应近几年刮得如火如荼的户外风，GAP推出了防晒夹克、凉感衣等功能性产品；联名和明星代言这些引流必杀技也没落下，与中国设计师品牌8ON8合作，还请来欧阳娜娜担任“品牌焕新主理人”。

但这些动作有多大效果，目前还不好说。社交平台上对于GAP的常见评价依旧是“又贵又土”，毕竟快时尚这个赛道如今已是僧多粥少，论上新速度、款式样式，GAP数十年如一日的胸前一个大logo卷不过Zara和UR，论性价比又被优衣库压着打，甚至在东亚语境下，这个名字都越看越不吉利——“GAP了一年真的难受，这衣服穿上压力倍增。”

而GAP集团大本部，似乎迎来了一线曙光。其最新财报显示，截至2月3日的2023财年第四季度业绩，营收为43亿美元，同比增长约1%，超过市场预期；净利润为1.85亿美元，而上年同期亏损2.73亿美元，实现了扭亏为盈。

这次靠安妮·海瑟薇有效曝光，跳出“努力努力白努力”这个泥沼的希望估计又大了一些。

（图/《穿普拉达的女王》）

不过，虽然明星能把快时尚穿成定毯神针，但消费者也已经越来越“清醒”。

在海瑟薇同款售罄的消息下，评论区寥寥几句结束战斗：“她穿什么不好看？普通人就未必了。”

译文：

GAP, which has almost become a tear of the times, has recently seen a decrease in traffic.

Last week, Bulgari released a new collection of high-end jewelry and watches in Rome, with global brand spokesperson Anne Hathaway making an appearance. She wore a white dress and Blue Treasure to instantly kill the film, forming a beautiful era with fellow contestants Shu Qi, Liu Yifei, and Periranka Caopala. In such a flashy and dazzling fame and fortune market, the dress that Hathaway is wearing surprisingly comes from the somewhat exaggerated fast fashion brand GAP.

When I don't know the brand, I feel that Hathaway is beautiful and has a sense of relaxation. After knowing the brand, I am willing to label Hathaway as the "ancestor of relaxation".

At midnight US time today, the same model as Hathaway was officially launched on the GAP official website, priced at $158 and quickly sold out.

For GAP, this may be one of the few highlights in recent years.

However, besides GAP, there is another keyword associated with this dress: Zac Posen.

On February 5th of this year, GAP Group announced that American designer Zac Posen will assume the position of Executive Vice president and creative Director, managing its four brands, GAP, Banana Republic, Athleta, and Old Navy. He will also serve as the Chief Creative officer of Old Navy, in addition to design, responsible for goods and marketing.

For Zac Posen, joining GAP can be said to be a "sinking". Previously, he mainly worked in the high-end fashion field, accumulating a certain reputation by designing custom dresses for celebrities and models. The eponymous brand Zac Posen is a regular on various red carpets and events. In 2014, Liu Wen appeared on the Met Gala wearing his designed green dress, and even now, this style is still being showcased as a classic retrospective at the annual Met Gala event.

However, although often selected as the "red carpet battle robe" by a group of celebrity supermodels, high-end customization cannot sustain fashion brands. No perfume lipstick, no ready to wear clothes, and no blood transfusion from large groups. Zac Posen closed the brand of the same name established in 2001 due to financial problems in 2019.

Then it is time to take over fast fashion in 2024.

Regarding the decision to hire Zac Posen, GAP Group CEO Richard Dickson stated in a media interview that his ability to combine technology, creativity, and understanding of popular culture will be helpful for GAP's future development.

Similar appointments have also occurred before.

In 2007, GAP appointed fashion industry celebrity Patrick Robinson as the Creative Director, who had worked for high-end brands such as Armani and Perry Ellis, as well as endorsed by Anna Wintour, the editor in chief of the American version of VOGUE and the "fashion queen". He worked at GAP for four years.

In 2012, GAP then hired Rebekka Bay, a designer who had led the mid to high end brand COS under H&M Group to make a breakthrough. She worked at GAP for three years.

In an interview with The Wall Street Journal, Rebekka Bay bluntly stated, "GAP is not a designer led brand, and I have almost no say in what products can be sold in stores."

After Rebekka Bay hastily resigned, the GAP market performance continued to be weak, and the brand image accelerated aging.

Repeated transformations have yielded no results, and GAP can only transform more vigorously.

In 2020, GAP also brought in Kanye West, a popular manufacturer in the fashion industry from a few years ago, to launch the "Yeezy Gap". The two companies signed an agreement for 10 years, but in 2022, they parted ways due to Kanye's epic crash.

In 2022, GAP sold its business in Greater China to e-commerce service provider Baozun, which started cooperating in 2018. The latter was granted exclusive authorization by Gap to produce, promote, and sell products across all channels in Greater China, while also possessing design rights for Chinese products. This acquisition was officially completed in February 2023.

At this point, it can be said that the domestic version of Gap has basically become a "pure blood domestic product".

The main task of Baozun, which is to bring business from the Greater China region into its hands, is still transformation. In response to the booming outdoor trend in recent years, GAP has launched functional products such as sunscreen jackets and cool clothing; Co branding and celebrity endorsements, these drainage skills, have not fallen behind. We have collaborated with the Chinese designer brand 8ON8 and even invited Ouyang Nana to serve as the "brand renewal manager".

But it is not yet clear how effective these actions will be. The common evaluation of GAP on social platforms is still "expensive and local". After all, the fast fashion track is now full of monks and porridge is scarce. In terms of new speed and style, GAP has been like a big logo on its chest for decades, but Zara and UR have failed. In terms of cost performance, Uniqlo has been pressing the name. Even in the East Asian context, the name is more and more unlucky - "GAP has been really uncomfortable for a year, and the pressure on wearing this dress has doubled."

The headquarters of GAP Group seems to have seen a glimmer of hope. Its latest financial report shows that as of February 3, the fourth quarter of the 2023 fiscal year achieved revenue of $4.3 billion, a year-on-year increase of about 1%, exceeding market expectations; The net profit was $185 million, compared to a loss of $273 million in the same period last year, achieving a turnaround from loss to profit.

Thanks to Anne Hathaway's effective exposure this time, the hope of breaking out of the quagmire of "hard work pays off" is probably even greater.

However, although celebrities can turn fast fashion into a magic needle, consumers have also become increasingly "sober".

Under the news that Hathaway's same model was sold out, the comment section ended the battle with a few words: "What doesn't look good on her? It's not necessarily for ordinary people."

句子分析1：

In such a flashy and dazzling fame and fortune market, the dress that Hathaway is wearing surprisingly comes from the somewhat exaggerated fast fashion brand GAP.

句子成分分析：

[In such a flashy and dazzling fame and fortune market], the dress (that Hathaway is wearing) surprisingly comes from the somewhat exaggerated fast fashion brand GAP.

句子语法结构详解：

* that 为关系代词，引导定语从句。
* wearing 为谓语，采用现在进行时。
* comes 为谓语，采用一般现在时。动词采用第三人称单数形式。
* is 为助动词。the 为定冠词。a 为不定冠词。

相关语法知识:
   并列连词
   定语从句
   时态
   动词的第三人称单数形式
   助动词

句子相关词汇解释：

Phrase:

Vocabulary:

句子语法错误检查：

(未发现错误)

句子分析2：

The eponymous brand Zac Posen is a regular on various red carpets and events. 

句子成分分析：

The eponymous brand Zac Posen is a regular [on various red carpets and events].

句子语法结构详解：

* is 为系动词作谓语，采用一般现在时。
* the 为定冠词。a 为不定冠词。

相关语法知识:
   系动词
   时态
   并列连词

句子相关词汇解释：

Phrase:

Vocabulary:

句子语法错误检查：

(未发现错误)

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